One of first 500 of contract C14498 with leg shields
Hi guys just got back from a run with a very loose Magdyno bracket, just had a quick glance & it looks a pig of a job to tighten up the underside screws and I can't see a quick way to do the job.
What is the best quickest way please.
You will have to remove the platform and magdyno from the machine.
There is no other "easy" way. Two screws rest on the engine plates and you cannot tighten these properly
If your MC is assembled the proper way, you remove the nuts on the near side (behind the primary case) and remove the bolts to the off side. If the bolts are the other way round then you have to remove the primary chain case.
You would not be the first one having the bolts the wrong way around.
Loosen engine plates a bit as well and remove the timing chain and sprocket from the magdyno.
After that you can tilt the entire unit out of the frame.
Hi Ron thanks for pointing this Forum out to me.
Just as I thought a crap job that I could of done without, I may as well look at the clutch at the same time as it sometimes slips when hot in traffic etc.
Loctite job for these bolts I think.
Thanks for your reply to Ian. Now I finally know which side is near side and which is off side. Don't use those terms over here.
It is an old English use of terms based on horse riding.
Apparently it was usual to put your left foot in the stirrup and swing your right leg over the horse.
Near side being the left side of the horse.
May have been used since medieval or earlier times as the sword hangs left for most right handed people.
It is not much used in present day but it is used in the Norton Instruction and maintenance manual quite often.
If you scroll down all the required info is already on this forum
Specifically look at
Wd Norton 16H magneto sprocket removal
Yes I realised that after I had posted but as it was my 1st post I didn't think about it, I will check out the sprocket removal but as I'm only retightening the base plate bolts do I need to remove the sprocket ?
Yes you do. The sprocket won't fit through the hole in the back of the timing cover otherwise and you'll need the extra space to get a big screwdriver on those countersunk screws (not bolts). A small three leg puller will do the job. You won't want to have to do this job a second time. Be careful tho' I've seen many fractured inner timing covers.
Anybody want to buy my 16H for £50 !!!!! what an F*****G job this is, I have never seen such a bad design in all my years of working on cars, bikes, boats & light aircraft .
Easy if you have done it once before, have the correct pullers etc & its not -4' outside but I'm working outside on the bike bench as I wasn't planning to do any bike repairs during the winter and the next VMCC bike run is on Thursday.
Should I start by taking the back wheel out turning it upside down & removing the engine 1st ?
It's not that bad, really!
BTW don't forget to loctite the countersunk screws. If you need new ones there's some on ebay. Also I fit a leather washer between the mag and the back of the timing cover to keep the **** out. Good luck!
We do this for a hobby Ian:relaxed: But I've said it before, bikes with magneto chains (Norton, Matchless etc) are my pet hate. Apart from the removal of the sprockets without the aid of a purpose made puller, there is also the pain of getting a satisfactory adjustment to the chain on reassembly. Having said that, I do still love my Norton's and every bike we work on can have foibles and things that make us wonder about the thinking of the designers.
As you're going to have to remove the mag anyway, I would suggest you take the opportunity to give it to a professional magneto guy for a thorough check and overhaul if required. Ron
Hi Ron I obviously didn't go on the VMCC run on Thursday because of the snow & yes this is a hobby which I almost forgot in the rush to get the bike back on the road.
This morning I had a shunt around with the Humber, Jeep Tilly & a few of the bikes so the work bench is now in the workshop with a stripped out Norton on it.
Everything fell apart as I took the timing cover off so I'll need to read up how to re-time it but what about the magneto timing ? as there appears to be no timing marks or keyway ?
I need some countersunk screws for the base plate, pickup for the HT lead & clutch plates as some are metal to metal. Also the short rubber oil pipes were solid & snapped so good job the mag came loose otherwise I would of just carried on riding it.
Can I get everything from Dragonfly or is there somewhere else for Norton spares ?
Ian I would first try old Les at Russell Motors for your parts, (phone only) Although someone mentioned that the screws are available on ebay.
No there are no timing marks. The timing is obtained by setting the piston at 7/16" BTDC on compression stroke and the point just breaking and the ign lever set at full advance. As has already been suggested, download the maintenance manual for a full description....... Always turn the engine over a couple of revs and re-check it......and if you manage to get it spot on first time....You're a better man than me Gunga Pooch!! Ron
And from the Oxford dictionary:- https://en.oxforddictionaries.com/definition/nearside
Hi Ron its all apart and was actually quite easy, would I gain anything by drilling a hole in the back of the primary drive case & fitting the Magdyno bolt from the 'nearside' for future removal ? The clutch plates are very worn, mine is fitted with 5 but on the internet lots of sellers have sets of 4 also where can I get inserts for the clutch basket ?
Ian I see no benefit in drilling the chain case. Just put it back from the offside as Rob suggested. From memory, it's just a bit fiddly getting the nut started.
Try this bloke first for clutch inserts, It might be better to send him the basket. Please let me know how you get on with Bob as I haven't used him for about a year now. Ron
Tel: 01273 494437
Yes-getting the nut started is a bit of a pain-but if you remove the breaker assembly from the mag, you then have access to the end of the bolt, and fitting the nut is easy.